MESURE TWICE CUT ONCE

STARTING AND BUYING HAND TOOL GUIDE FOR BEGINNERS

MUST HAVE TOOL 4- MEASURE AND MARKING TOOLS

One of the most important tools in the workshop.
If you measure and mark your work correctly you would not have mistakes allmost at all.
These tools look like a small and unnecessary stuff but they are necessary and can get very VERY expensive.
Here is the list.


DEVIDERS
Dividers (or compass) are also used for taking and repeating a measurement over and over again on a work piece. “Joiners” (or traditional woodworkers who build furniture) rarely take measurements with a tape measure when doing fine joinery work, but rather take a measurement with dividers then transfer that arbitrary (yet accurate) measurement to another work piece.


MARKING GAUGE


Like dividers, marking gauges are used for transferring a measurement and repeating it over and over again. A locking mechanism keeps the gauge from slipping and loosing that measurement. You cannot build furniture without at least one good sturdy marking gauge.



MARKING KNIFE

A marking knife is used for marking where you will be cutting with your saws. For getting into tight spots (like dovetails) and making very accurate lines (which is vital for tight fitting joints) you need just the right marking knife. You would think that any old knife would work, but you would be wrong. I purchased several that didn’t work well.



COMBINATION SQUARE

A very good and accurate 6-inch combination square is used for so, so many tasks in my workshop, including checking the squareness of boards (when planing them to final dimension), scribing dovetail joints & many other joints, and much, much more.

TRY SQUARE

If you’re not confident enough to build your own try square at this point you should purchase a good metal try square (somewhere between 9 and 12 inches). It’ll be used for scribing square lines down the face of your boards, such as a line for where to cut with your saw.

SLIDING BEVEL

A sliding bevel square (or “bevel gauge”) is used for scribing angles on your workpiece. Once set, a good sliding bevel square should be able to repeat that angle over and over again, like when you are laying out dovetails on a board face.

SAWS

STARTING AND BUYING HAND TOOL GUIDE FOR BEGINNERS

MUST HAVE TOOL 3- SAWS

Hand saws are useful, everyday tools perfect for various purposes from pruning green wood, cutting wood, log and even metal. Below are the types of handsaw that you can find at your local home improvement store.

TYPES OF HANDSAWS

KEYHOLE SAW

Also known as compass saw, a keyhole saw is perfect in cutting holes in wood and curves. Its blades
are mounted on handle that is made of metal, wood or plastic and shaped like that of a hand gun. Keyhole saws have a cross tooth pattern with 10 to 12 teeth per inch. It is a push stroke handsaw.

CROSS CUT SAW

A cross cut saw has wide alternating bevel teeth perfect for rough cutting on wood grains where tearing
out is not important. Its saw blade ranges from 55 to 70 cm with 8 to 12 teeth per inch.

PANEL SAW

Panel saws are perfect for cutting small pieces of wood. It is shorter compared to regular hand saws
and is useful for its portability. Panel saw length can be as short as 46 cm with 8 to 12 teeth per inches.

RIP CUT SAW

A rip cut saw is an aggressive, push stroke handsaw with sharpened teeth top. Its saw length varies from 60 to 70 cm with 5 to 7 teeth per inches.

BACK SAW

Back saws are used for molding, trimming and fine woodcutting. Back saws got its name from its reinforced upper edge made of brass or steel to prevent it from buckling during use. Its teeth are smaller compared to other types of hand saws grouped tightly together to achieve a fine cut. There are various subtypes of back saw like the Mitre saw, Dovetail saw, Carcass saw, Gents saw and Tenon Saw. Back saw blade size can range from 20 cm to 40 cm

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COPING SAW

Coping saws are perfect for cutting intricate patterns on wood.  It has a sprung steel frame with a
wooden handle that can be turned to tighten the blade. A coping saw is a pull stroke hand saw.

JAPANESE SAW

Japanese saws are pull stroke saws made of very thin steel. It is known for its faster cutting power while producing less sawdust. A Japanese saw is also perfect for precision cutting on both hardwood and softwood. There are three major types of Japanese saw namely; Dozuki, Ryoba and Kataba.

HACKSAW

Hacks saws have fine, disposable blades held in tension by front and back pins. It is used in metal
cutting such as thin tubing and drill rod with its 18 to 32 teeth per inch. Its finer blades can also cut through cables, wire ropes, light angle irons and channels. A hacksaw is a push stroke hand saw.

BOW SAW

Bow saws are push and pull handsaws with a round steel frame that is shape like a bow. It is generally used for cutting logs with its crosscut tooth pattern.

CHISELS

STARTING AND BUYING HAND TOOL GUIDE FOR BEGINNERS

MUST HAVE TOOL 2- CHISEL

A chisel is a tool with a characteristically shaped cutting edge (such that wood chisels have lent part of their name to a particular grind) ofblade on its end, for carving or cutting a hard material such as wood, stone, or metal by hand, struck with a mallet, or mechanical power.The handle and blade of
some types of chisel are made of metal or wood with a sharp edge in it.

In use, the chisel is forced into the material to cut it. The driving force may be manually applied or applied using a mallet or hammer. In industrial use, a hydraulic ram or falling weight drives the chisel into the material to be cut.

A gouge, one type of chisel, is used, particularly in woodworking, woodturning and sculpture, to carve small pieces from the material. Gouges are most often used in creating concave surfaces. A gouge typically has a 'U'-shaped cross-section.

USE

Chisels have a wide variety of uses. Many types of chisel have been devised, each specially suited to its intended use. Different types of chisel may be constructed quite differently, in terms of blade width or length, as well as shape and hardness of blade. They may have a wooden or plastic handle attached using a tang or socket, or may be made entirely of one piece of metal.

TYPES OF CHISELS

BUTT CHISEL: short chisel with beveled sides and straight edge for creating joints.

CARVING CHISELS: used for intricate designs and sculpting; cutting edges are many; such as gouge, skew, parting, straight, paring, and V-groove.
CORNER CHISEL: resembles a punch and has an L-shaped cutting edge. Cleans out square holes, mortises and corners with 90 degree angles.
BEVEL EDGE CHISEL: can get into acute angles with its bevelled edges.
FRAMING CHISEL: usually used with mallet; similar to a butt chisel, except it has a longer, slightly flexible blade.
SLICK CHISEL: a large chisel driven by manual pressure, never struck.
MORTISE CHISEL: thick, rigid blade with straight cutting edge and deep, slightly tapered sides to make mortises and similar joints.
PARING CHISEL: has a long blade which is ideal for cleaning grooves and accessing tight spaces.
SKEW CHISEL: has a 60 degree cutting angle and is used for trimming and finishing.
DOVETAIL CHISEL: made specifically for cutting dovetail joints. The difference being the thickness of the body of the chisel, as well as the angle of the edges, permitting easier access to the joint.

REMEMBER SHARP CHISEL IS BEST CHISEL 

ADVANCED PLANES

STARTING AND BUYING HAND TOOL GUIDE FOR BEGINNERS

MUST HAVE TOOL 1 - HAND PLANES

SPOKESHAVE


A spokeshave is a tool used to shape and smooth wooden rods and shafts - often for use as wheel spokes, chair legs self bows, and arrows. It can also be used to carve canoe paddles.



SHOULDER PLANE

The shoulder plane is a plane tool with a blade flush with the edges of the plane, allowing trimming right up to the edge of a workpiece. Like a rebate plane, the shoulder plane's blade extends, therefore cuts, to the full width of the tool. The shoulder plane is used to trim the shoulders and faces of tenons. It

is used when it is necessary to trim right into the concave corner where two surfaces of the same piece of wood meet perpendicularly. It is also commonly used to clean up dadoes (housings) and tenons for joinery.

Unlike the rebate plane, the shoulder plane is intended to cut end grain. There are therefore differences between it and a rebate plane in the angles at which the iron (blade) is set.

MOULDING PLANE

In woodworking, a moulding plane (molding plane in US spelling) is a specialised plane used for mouldings. 

making the complex shapes found in wooden 

Traditionally, moulding planes were blocks of wear resistant hardwood, often Beech or Maple, which were worked to the shape of the intended moulding. The blade, or iron was likewise formed to the intended moulding profile and secured in the body of the plane with a wooden wedge. A traditional cabinetmakers shop might have many, perhaps hundreds, of moulding planes for the full range of work to be performed. The late nineteenth century brought modern types which were all metal affairs such as the American Stanley No. 55 Universal Plane and the English Record No. 405 Multi-Plane with a wide variety of interchangeable cutters, integral fences, and "knickers", small cutting edges which score the grain fibers when working

across the board.




REBATE PLANE

The rebate plane (also known as the rabbet plane) is a hand plane designed for cutting rabbets in wood. It's a simple tool, used in many Western countries, with hundreds of years of history. It was in use

in England at least as early as the 11th century.

The rebate plane is one of a group of planes including the shoulder plane, bullnose plane and carriage makers plane in which the blade protrudes by a very small amount - usually less than half a millimetre - from the sides of the plane body on both sides. The blade is very slightly wider than the body of the plane. The reason for the slight protrusion of the blade is so that the plane body does not bind on the side of the cut, which would result in the side wall of the rebate not being perpendicular to the bottom

ROUTER PLANE

A router plane is a plane used for smoothing out sunken panels, and more generally for all

depressions below the general surface of the pattern.

It planes the bottoms of recesses to a uniform depth and can work into corners that could be reached only by the use of a chisel.

Nowodays, it is often replaced by the electrical router but continues to be preferred in special cases.

USE

Planing wood along its side grain should result in thin shavings rising above the surface of the wood as the edge of the plane iron is pushed forward, leaving a smooth surface, but sometimes splintering occurs. This is largely a matter of cutting with the grain or against the grainrespectively, referring to the side grain of the piece of wood being worked.

The grain direction can be determined by looking at the edge or side of the work piece. Wood fibers can be seen running out to the surface that is being planed. When the fibers meet the work surface it looks like the point of an arrow that indicates the direction. With some very figured and difficult woods, the grain runs in many directions and therefore working against the grain is inevitable. In this case, a very sharp and finely-set blade is required.

When planing against the grain, the wood fibers are lifted by the plane iron, resulting in a jagged finish, called tearout. Planing against the grain in this manner is sometimes called "traverse" or "transverse" planing.

Planing the end grain of the board involves different techniques, and frequently different planes designed for working end grain. Planes with the iron bedded at a "low angle," typically about 12 degrees, are often used for planing end grain

there are some other types but you will learn about them trough blog but they are just optional-

THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME 

BASICS PLANES

STARTING AND BUYING HAND TOOL GUIDE FOR BEGINNERS

MUST HAVE TOOL 1 - HAND PLANES

BLOCK PLANE

A block plane is a small hand plane which typically has the iron beddeb at a

lower angle than other planes, with the bevel up.It is designed to cut end grain and is typically small enough to be used with one hand.

SMOOTHING PLANE

The smoothing plane is typically the last plane used on a woodsurface - when used properly, the finish it gives will be far superior to that made by sandpaper or scrapers. The smooth finish is the result of planing the wood off in strips, rather than by successive buffing and scratching.

The smoothing plane is typically 8 to 10 inches long.The iron of the smoothing plane is generally sharpened straight across or with a slightly arched cutting edge (or at least with rounded corners) to prevent unsightly grooves from being gouged in the wood surface as it is planed.

The throat may be adjusted to a tight opening, so as to allow only a very fine shaving and to reduce tearout of the grain to a minimum. The smooth plane is held with both hands.



JACK PLANE

A jack plane is the general-purpose bench plane, used for general smoothing of the edges, sizing of timber, but only making it smaller to correct size— wood edge jointing. Jack planes are about 12-15 inches long, and the blade can have either a slightly curved edge.

for smoothing stock, or a straight edge for jointing stock.

In preparing stock, the jack plane is used after scrub plane and before thejointer plane and smoothing plane. The name is related to the saying "jack of all trades" as jack planes can be made to perform some of the work of both smoothing and jointer planes, especially on smaller pieces of work.

JOINTER PLANE

The jointer plane (also known as the try plane or trying plane) is a type of hand plane used primarily to straighten the edges of boards in the

operation known as jointing. A jointer plane may also be used to flatten the face of a board. Its long length is designed to 'ride over' the undulations of an uneven surface, skimming off the peaks, gradually creating a flat surface. In thicknessing or preparing rough stock, the jointer plane is usually preceded by the jack plane and followed by the smoothing plane.



SCRUB PLANE

The scrub plane is a type of plane used to remove large amounts of wood from the surface of lumber, such as when eliminating cup or twist in the first stages of preparing rough stock, or when reducing the thickness of a board significantly. Scrub planes generally have a short soles, a relatively narrow but thick blade, a very wide mouth, and a deeply curved edge (of about a 3 inch radius) to make a deep, gouging cut.

A scrub plane is generally used in diagonal strokes jack plane, jointer plane, then smoothing plane.

across the face of a board, rather than parallel to the length of the board (along the grain) as with most other bench planes. In thicknessing or preparing rough stock, the scrub plane is usually followed by the

Its function in modern woodworking has been largely replaced by power tools such as the thickness planer. A scrub plane can still be useful for planing boards too wide to fit through a thickness planer.

WW FIELDS

STARTING AND BUYING HAND TOOL GUIDE FOR BEGINNERS

Chose fields od woodworking

When i was starting , i had no clue what to buy.

I thought i need all planes and all chisels, but that is way out of thruth .

First you have to choose what you want to make(i call it field). Some people decide to work with hand tools and they come to shop and buy all hand tools that are in shop.

When those people start a projects they realise that some tools are useless for a lot of projects.
So you have to decide what you want to do in your shop.If you want to make small boxes or big tables and beds than you have to buy almost different tools.

This guide is going to be everithing youll need.

BASIC TYPES

DIFFERENT TYPES OF WOODWORKING

Machinery woodworking

Type of woodworking where u use giant and expensive machines . This type is mostly in industrial use and it is not very complicated, you jus mesure, set machine to cut, sand, plane as u want.
So that is not a big problem.

But not only industry buys and uses them, some people give a lot of money and work with them in their workshops .
These machines can get really expensive and big so you will need a lot of money and workshop space.
Unforunetly if u like this type of woodworking than this blog is not for you.


Power tool woodworking

If you are looking on woodworking on something thats easy than you are thinking about power tool woodworking .

Today you can buy these tools very cheap and spend not so much time on your projects ,because this tools are easy and quick to use.
Some of them can get pretty noisy like electric hand plane.
But there is sort of reasons why should you wear safety equipment and belive it is very important.


Hybrid woodworking

This type is a mix between two types .
And it is most common type of all.
If you want to get into this ww you are gona use hand tools an also power tools.
Lets make an example: you are planing with stanley hand plane and drilling holes with bench press.
Its simple because you can use your favorite tool and at same time get work done on time.

Hand tool woodworking 

This type is my favourite and we will be concentrating on it for almost every time.

This type gives nice and elegant results of course you have to work for it but still you also can get much higher price for it than for machinery works.

If you want be selling your works you will still get price on it, but not money than sentimental meaning and that is deffinitly the priceless meaning ...

In next article we will be talking abouth starting guide for beginners.

Thanks :)

INTRODUCTION

EVERYBODY CAN DO IT SO DO YOU!!

I remember when I was 7 yeasrs old and every day after school i ran home just to make shavings with my grandpa.

He had small workshop and small amount of tools but its all he needed because it was not a job but a hobby.

Me and my brother Tomo loved to work with our grandpa because he always had new and exciting projects.

Sadly he passed away when we were kids...

Today we spend more time in that workshop/garage than in our bedrooms.

We have some knowlage and we are ready to share that with you and you can also share yours with us.

Link us a projects or theme that you want from us to whrite about.